Papa Ghede

Haitian Vodou

Ruler of the Ghede Loa Family

Loa of Death, Resurrection, Humor, and Fertility

Papa Ghede is the ruler of the Ghede Loa family. He is the soul of the first person who ever died. As such, he is responsible for guarding the crossroads and guiding souls to Ginen, the realm of the ancestors, after a person passes away. Papa Ghede is the benevolent counterpart to Baron Samedi.

This loa plays an important role in the Ghede Loa family. His duties include:

• Guarding the crossroads
• Witnessing a person’s death
• Judging a person’s time
• Guiding the souls to Ginen (the realm of the ancestors)
• Protecting graves and cemeteries
• Overseeing resurrection and spirit possession

Attributes of Papa Ghede

Most notably, Papa Ghede is the guardian of the dead. He is a psychopomp that guides the souls of the dead to Ginen. The souls of the dead must first meet with Papa Legba, who opens the gates of Kalfou, the crossroads. After this, Papa Ghede meets them and guides their journey from Kalfou to Ginen.

As a protector of children, Papa Ghede often determines if it is the right time for a sick child to die. He can allow the child to remain in Tè, the land of the living. Because of this, many parents invoke his guidance when their children face illness.

Despite his sometimes protective nature, Papa Ghede, like other loa in the Ghede family, is known for his crude and obscene nature. He often makes sexual innuendos, crude jokes, and obscene imagery that exposes hard truths people might not want to face. This behavior portrays him as a divine trickster as well.

Papa Ghede’s Appearance

Typically, this loa wears attire that resembles an undertaker, as his domain is death and cemeteries. His signature clothing and appearance consists of:
The Cross: symbolizing the crossroads he presides over.

• Undertaker’s Coat: symbolizing his connection with the spirits of the dead
• Top Hat: symbolizing authority
• Cigars and Apples: symbolizing the pleasures of life
• Clarin (raw rum): symbolizing fiery and uninhibited nature

Since Papa Ghede is responsible for overseeing the transition between life and death, he is sometimes portrayed with gravedigger tools. His preference in colors for clothing consists of black to signify death, white to represent purity and the bones of ancestors, and purple to indicate royalty and wisdom. He may also carry a cane or walking stick at times.

Offerings

Like most loa, food offerings are traditional for Papa Ghede. He prefers luxury foods, tobacco, and strong spirits. Additionally, black and purple candles, crosses, skulls, mirrors, pictures of ancestors, sexual toys or objects, and rude jokes are acceptable offerings.
For food offerings, the most preferred tend to include:

• Apples
• Cigars (or other tobacco)
• Clairin (spice-infused rum)
• Roasted Corn
• Black Coffee
• Home Baked Goods

When leaving an offering for Papa Ghede, it is important to prepare the altar first. Altars in a hounfor (Vodou house) or cemeteries are the most acceptable places to leave offerings. Furthermore, it is critical to leave offerings with respect and pure intention. Despite his crude nature, Papa Ghede does not tolerate disrespect. Mocking this loa will most certainly garner his wrath.

Symbols

The veve for this loa consists of a grave with a cross on top of it and a skull and crossbones on either side. He also dawn’s formal attire that consists of purple, black, and white. His signature top hat and undertaker’s coat also portray his authority over the dead.

Additionally, crosses are a significant symbol for this loa, as he is the guardian of the crossroads. Miniature coffins are also associated with Papa Ghede as a protector of children. Finally, phallic symbols are acceptable for this loa as he embraces sexuality and crude jokes.

Rituals

Rituals to honor Papa Ghede must be conducted with respect as he is a powerful loa of death, fertility, and resurrection. Saturdays are the most common days to worship the Ghede family of loa. Fèt Gede (Festival of the Dead) falls upon the Catholic holidays of All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day on November 1st and 2nd.

Prepare an altar draped in black or purple. Offerings left on the altar should include black or purple candles, apples, cigars or tobacco, spice-infused rum (clairin), phallic symbols, crosses, and miniature coffins.

First, one must invoke the approval of Papa Legba to open the gates to the spirit world. Next, a prayer is said to summon Papa Ghede. This prayer often incorporates “Papa Ghede, vin jwenn nou”, meaning “Papa Ghede, come join us.” Finally, rhythmic drumming accompanies chants or singing to summon the loa.

Rituals to summon Papa Ghede most commonly include guidance for healing, fertility, sexuality, protection, and shepherding the dead to the afterlife.

Cemetery Traditions

When honoring the dead during Fèt Gede or just to honor ancestors, it is crucial to ask for the blessings of the spirits before entering a cemetery. Pennies or rice can be left to appease the spirits of the cemetery before entering. Formal attire is customary in black, purple, or white.

While visiting an ancestor’s grave, the family should clean the headstone and the area around the grave to show respect for the dead. Prayers, songs, and dancing invoke the presence of the loa in the cemetery. Pouring libations such as clairin (pepper-infused rum) and coffee also helps show respect for the souls of dead ancestors.